This morning I went to Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Cathedral in Charlotte's Dilworth neighborhood. This is my second Orthodox liturgy that I've attended and my first time here, although I have been inside this church dozens of times. That is because Holy Trinity is also the location of Charlotte's Greek Festival, a long-standing tradition in town. As such, this location is a place I have visited for many years.
Dilworth is an upscale part of South Charlotte, on the cusp of uptown. I live in South End, adjacent to Dilworth. I have always had friends in Dilworth. Its denizens are fit, progressive, local foodies, highly-educated... those types of people.
Here's a typical house in Dilworth:
This church was built by Greek immigrants when Dilworth would have been considered the edge of town, in 1923. And this was also during a time when people from Greece were likely somewhat exotic by Southern standards.
Today's liturgy was both profound and peaceful. I sense Orthodox liturgy is always that way and I am eager to see more. There are Egyptian (Coptic), Ethiopian, Russian, Serbian and other Orthodox communities around Charlotte now. This place was the tip of the spear for that demographic shift that is ongoing.
As always, the entrance of the church was of note. It reminded me that I was going into a place that was different from the world outside.
Here are some of those pics:
I walked in with mask on, got my temperature taken, chatted for a minute and then went solo to the choir loft upstairs. At that time, I realized I had arrived during "matins," the morning prayer service that precedes liturgy.
The place was dark as chants were traded back and forth between a female and a male chanter, one in Greek and one in English. My soul started to ease magnificently. I felt transported away from pandemics, racial strife, killer police and the normal weight of my life (admittedly an easy one, in the cosmic schema around us - but still...).
Some pics:
After a time, the lights came on. The structured process of liturgy started. I understood more about what I was seeing, having been to St. Nektarios on a prior visit. It still hit my Protestant sensibilities as very different, but slightly less so now.
From liturgy:
As people stood, I stood. But that was about it. People made different signs of the cross on their body at different times, and much of the liturgy included Greek. In short, I had no idea what to do and when to do it. Which was fine. This isn't my tradition or my community. But the act of observing was enjoyable and served to bring on me "...the peace which passes all understanding."
This is mentioned in Phillipians 4:7, a book of the Bible that is based on a letter written to a new congregation of believers in ancient Greece, no less.
Of note was the demographic makeup of the people in attendance. Many appeared not to be Greek, if the number of blonde women would be considered any indication. Additionally, there was an interracial couple in attendance, black man and white woman. The affiliation with Greece and Greek culture is becoming more tenuous, I think. And as an American, I enjoyed seeing this diversity.
A good feeling and an interesting observation.
As I listened to the chanters, I noticed that there was a single note in the bass registration that was played throughout most of the liturgy. It was an ongoing hum that organized my thoughts spectacularly. And so much of the sounds and smells reminded me how much Orthodoxy has to do with the greater Middle East.
I'll admit, the sounds of this liturgy evoked Islam in many ways, the sounds of which I have heard in Dubai, Turkey, India, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and Abu Dhabi. Despite this contextual similarity, I was reminded that Christians in majority Muslim lands had and have a position as second class citizens. But the shared space that so many Muslims and Orthodox Christians have shared for centuries was evident in the feel of today's chanting.
Another couple of examples:
I found it nice, nonetheless.
As I departed, I saw Dilworth Methodist across the street. It is still closed due to Covid-19. These churches have been facing one another for decades now. I wondered if they communicate in any way? They are following the same Yeshua, to my way of thinking.
Upon leaving, everything fell back into place. Bells rung out from Holy Trinity and there were sirens on lower East Boulevard, a seemingly perpetual fact of life lately.
Back to the world I go. But now I am armed with armor of multilingual liturgical chants and one perpetual bass note.
And that will likely make all the difference... indeed, all the difference in the world.